The printer prints directly onto the plastic card. It’s fast, cost-effective, and ideal for most staff ID cards and visitor badges.

Think “sticker printing” (but much smarter): the image is printed onto a clear layer first, then sealed onto the card. This gives cleaner edges, durability and is the gold standard for printing on chip/smart cards.

dpi means “dots per inch”. More dots means sharper fine details and richer images, but it won’t magically fix a low-quality image.

Heat turns coloured dye into a gas that sinks into the card surface. That’s why photo IDs can look smooth (not “dotty”).

A heated printhead melts resin (usually black) onto the card. It’s great for sharp text, barcodes, and “true black”.

DTC printers print 'edge-to-edge' which means very near the edge of the card. If you're printing a full colour image across the entire surface of the card, a thin white frame will be visible. 

Retransfer printers “wrap” print around the edge of a card and are recommended for printing on smart cards.

Print speed is shown as “cards per hour”. It gives a rough idea, but real-world speed depends on card design & encoding. The printer spec will break it down into how many colour cards it can produce per hour, and how many monochrome cards.

Retransfer printing uses high heat to apply the print to the card. On a single-sided print this heat is applied to a single side only, so as the card cools it can cause curling. A bend remedy unit heats the other side of the card during single-sided print to reverse this.

This is the “standard colour ribbon”. It prints colour (Y = Yellow, M = Magenta, C= Cyan), then sharp black (K), and then adds a thin clear layer (O) to help protect the card.

Prints in full colour on the front of a card, then black on the back (ideal for barcodes, Ts & Cs, numbers). Only for use with a double sided printer.

Dye-film is a clear film that the printer prints onto first, then fuses onto the card. This allows the image to wrap more evenly across the surface, even on cards with chips or uneven areas.

After printing, the ribbon adds a thin clear coating — like a seal over the print to help it last longer. Most ribbons include this as standard, it's the 'O' in 'YMCKO'.

Prints sharp black text/barcodes, then adds a clear protective coat. Ideal when you don’t need colour, but still want durability.

Monochrome means “one colour only”. Black ribbons are most common for printing text/barcodes, but different coloured ribbons are often available too.

Like YMCKO, but with an extra clear coat. Used when cards need more protection against scuffs and daily handling.

Print you only see under UV light (like nightclub stamps). Great for quick authenticity checks.

If it’s the same size as a bank card, it’s basically CR80 / ID-1. Most staff IDs and access cards use this format.

C79 cards are a bit shorter than standard credit-card size. They’re commonly used as adhesive-backed cards that stick onto visitor badges or holders.

Most standard ID cards are 0.76mm thick. Thinner cards are available. Printers list a supported thickness range — cards outside this can jam or misprint.

Rewritable cards are designed for temporary use. The printed info can be erased and replaced, reducing waste and card costs.

PVC is the most common card material. Composite, PET, ABS, and polycarbonate cards are tougher but may need specific printers or ribbons.

Paperboard cards are designed for short-term use. They’re often chosen for events where sustainability matters more than longevity.

PVC is the “default” ID card material. It prints well, works with most card printers, and is the most common choice for staff IDs, memberships, and access cards.

Recycled PVC cards look and behave like standard PVC, but use reclaimed material to reduce environmental impact.

An RFID card is a plastic card with a chip/antenna inside and is thicker than a standard PVC card. The 'gold standard' is printing using a retransfer printer, but you can print on DTC if you avoid the raised chip area in your design.  

Card lifespan depends on how the card is made, how it’s printed, and how it’s used. Lamination, overlays, and better-quality card materials all help cards last longer.

Encoding means writing the right data to the RFID chip so it works with your doors/readers. The key point: you can’t “make it work” if the chip type or frequency doesn’t match your system.

It’s the classic “swipe strip”. Encoding writes information onto the stripe so door readers, time & attendance systems, or legacy card readers can read it.

HiCo (high coercivity) is harder to accidentally erase and is better for long-term daily-use cards. LoCo (low coercivity) is cheaper but less durable. Your reader system will dictate which you need.

These cards have a metal contact chip (think “insert chip” tech). The encoder writes data to the chip during card production, so the card works with your secure system.

Contactless cards store data on a chip and antenna inside the card. Encoding writes that data so the card works with your readers. Think “tap at the door”, not “swipe”.

MIFARE Classic cards store data in “sectors”. To encode beyond a basic UID read, the system typically uses security keys (often called Key A / Key B). If you don’t have the right keys/spec, you can’t reliably program the card to match your system.

DESFire is designed for higher security. Encoding typically involves applications/files and cryptographic keys. Translation: it’s very secure, but you need your system’s exact configuration to encode correctly.

“Fudan” usually refers to cards that are designed to be compatible with certain systems. Compatibility can vary by reader/system, so the safest approach is to match what you already use (or confirm the spec with your installer).

EM4200 is commonly used for 125kHz “proximity” systems. These systems often read an ID number (UID) rather than using complex encrypted data structures. They’re popular in older access control setups.

Cleaning kits remove dust and residue from inside the printer. Many printers prompt you to run a cleaning cycle after a set number of prints. 

A duplex (or flipper) printer turns the card over internally so both sides can be printed without manual handling.

A single-sided printer prints on one side of the card. If you need the back printed, you either flip cards manually or choose a duplex/flipper model.

This is the “stack size” for blank cards. A bigger hopper means fewer refills when you’re printing batches.

If a card misprints or fails encoding, the printer can send it to a separate “reject” tray instead of mixing it in with good cards.

Lamination is a tougher “top layer” added after printing. It boosts durability and can add security features like holograms. Some systems use patch laminates (covers part of the card) or full laminates (covers most/all of the card). Some manufacturers also describe clear protective layers as varnish/overlays.

Once a card is printed, the printer breaks up the data so personal information isn’t stored or recoverable inside the device.

HoloKote prints a subtle watermark directly onto the card surface when using Magicard printers. It’s a quick visual check to help spot copied or fake cards.

Encryption scrambles data so it can only be read by authorised systems. In card printing, this may apply to data sent to the printer, stored temporarily, or written during encoding.

Smart encoding means data isn’t just written randomly — it follows specific rules set by the access control or ID system, such as encryption keys, applications, sectors, or formats.

If the driver isn’t supported on your operating system, you’re going to struggle from the off. Always check Windows/Mac compatibility before choosing a printer.

Design software is where you create the card layout — adding photos, names, logos, barcodes, and text before printing or encoding.

ID card printers rely on drivers and software that must match your computer’s operating system. Some support both Windows and macOS, others are Windows-only.

Most ID card printers are designed to work with Windows or Mac computers, where card design software and printer drivers are installed.

In some setups, it is possible to print simple cards from phones or tablets using specific apps or web-based systems. These printers normally need to be connected via Ethernet or Wi-Fi, and the printing software must support mobile devices.

Because this depends on the printer model, connection type, and software platform, mobile printing is not available in every setup.

ID card software often comes in different editions. Basic versions handle design and printing, while advanced editions unlock features like encoding, databases, and automation.

An SDK gives developers the building blocks to control a card printer from their own software — things like printing cards automatically, encoding data, or pulling details from a database.

A USB connection links the printer straight to a single computer using a cable. It’s simple, reliable, and doesn’t require network setup.

Wi-Fi lets the printer connect to your network without a physical cable. This makes it easier to place the printer where it’s most convenient, not just near a PC or network port.

Ethernet connects the printer to your local network using a physical cable. It’s typically more stable and secure than wireless connections, especially in managed IT environments.